Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation B20 and BR50 Review, Swatch & Comparison

One of the most talked about new foundation launch of 2014 must have been YSL Encre de Peau Fusion Ink. The first buzz appeared online early this year and it was released in August to September around the globe. I have been testing it over 6 weeks now, and I am ready to shade my thoughts with you on this beautiful sunny Saturday before I am off to the city for some shopping. 

Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation

As soon as I was back from holiday I dropped by the counter to check out how YSL Fusion Ink is like. The first impression was that it felt close to Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation, which I found to be very innovative but at the same time very drying on my normal to dry skin. Maestro always left me with dry flakes and I couldn't make it work regardless of how much I moisturized my skin prior to application.

After this first encounter, I was not sure if it would work on me. The big buzz created when the foundation was launched had its effects too, Breuninger counter had no samples to share. Later that week I was kindly send a PR sample in shade BR50. It is very dark for my NC20 complexion but I was just back with my summer glow and some sun kissed skin, so I took the chance to apply BR50 for a whole day. You can see me wearing BR50 here. The shade is really dark but I was very surprised to find out that it didn't dry out my skin and it lasted very long. Those were the two things which were crucial for me before pulling the trigger, so I went to the counter and purchased B20, which is almost a perfect match for me.

Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation B20 and BR50

Packaging:

If you read reviews, as much as there is rave about the formula of YSL Fusion Ink, there is rant about the packaging. From hygiene point of view, customers (including me) prefer packages that is one way, meaning, whatever goes out of the container, should be getting me. It can be a pump dispenser or a simple plastic tube to squeeze (a la Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, which I am also not a fan of, but it keeps things clean). It was one of the moments at the counter when I thought "I don't know what got inside this bottle so let me rather not put it in my face.

As much as I don't like the idea of using other peoples Fusion Ink, I can come to terms with using mine, which was purchased by me and used only by me. For the make-up artists out there, I can imagine that a product looks hygienic is more of a concern.  

Since the formula is very thin and liquid (which is a good thing for the application) I imagine that it is a hard thing to come up with a one way dispenser. I thought since it is so liquid, they could use something like sponge tipped applicator of concealers. Or would you find it even more gross? Jury is out there, if you have ideas, right them down, maybe we can influence a repackaging of the product since the formula is heavenly...

Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation Applicator

Shades: 

I normally wear Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua B20 during most of the year and switch to B30 if I am tanned or mixed these two. At the end of the winter I am sometimes as light as B10 or a mixture of B10 and B20. I have a samples of Diorskin Star 30, which was alright right after the holiday but it is now a bit dark. I picked up YSL Fusion Ink B20 for my match and I am very happy with it. It is just slightly lighter than my complexion, which gives me room for shading and contouring. As you see Chanel B20 is just a tad darker than YSL Fusion Ink B20. I like them both because of their natural undertones. I find most of the foundations to be too pink or too yellow on me. If you also have natural undertones like me, you will find something to match your skin on YSL range.

Now as for Germany (and I am guessing Europe as well), not all the shades are available at every counter and online. B20 is one of the exclusive ones but I was glad that Breuninger Stuttgart is one of the privileged counters which carry all the shades. The testers are usually BR50, which is too dark for most of the population in Germany but I was told this shade is the best seller, which also explains why I received it as a PR-samples on the first place. The lovely SA at Breuninger Stuttgart *waves*, he told me that most of the women do like that the foundation brings some "sun kissed" look on their faces so they go for BR50. Whether it is the choice of the customer or the brand, I find it rather odd. Do you now anyone who uses 3 shades deeper foundation to look tanned?

In total there are 21 shades, from 10 to 70, each having R(rose, cool undertones), D (dore, warm undertones) and natural. For examples for someone with lightness of 20, can select between BR20 (cool undertones), BD20 (warm undertones) and B20 (neutral undertones). Not all the shades have all three options available and there are some in between shades (like 45) available at some countries.

Swatches of Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation and comparison to other foundations

Formula and Application:

I found the best way to apply Fusion Ink is

Step #1: Give it a good shade

Step #2: Put out the applicator and dispense some product at the back of your hand or directly on your face. I like swiping the applicator directly on my face especially close to problem areas like rednesses or pigmentation. This way I get a bit more coverage around there and can get along with less concealing.

Step #3: Take a buffing brush and distribute the product with circular motion around the face. I especially like Duo-fiber brushes for this, I use one from Chanel or Hakuhodo.

Note: If you like to swipe the product directly on your face, make sure you do it carefully. A few times I ended up with foundation stains on my clothes. I don't think this has to do with packaging but about the applicator. My side of a sponge tipped applicator came at that moment *winks* (like under eye concealer). What do you think?

I would classify Fusion Ink as light to medium coverage on the first layer, medium coverage on the second layer. I think it builds up very well and never looks like a mask. It lasts long and doesn't dry out my skin. I use my normal moisturizer underneath. After the application, I recommend to wait a few minutes before all the oils evaporate and the foundation takes its lovely velvety finish. Then if you fancy, you can add a bit of a finishing powder to prolong the staying power even longer. On my dry to normal skin, I don't get shiny spots at the end of the day but since it is not drying on me, I imagine that combination to oily skins must take an additional step in setting or reapplying the foundation during the day. It is a trade-off ladies and I am happy that this one works on mine just right. 

The formula has many silicones which doesn't bother me, but for those of you who doesn't like that, probably you wouldn't like Fusion Ink. It also has SPF 18 and a little bit of a perfume smell, which doesn't annoy me and it is not noticeable after the application.

Ingredients:

Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isododecane, Alcohol Denat, Vinyl Dimenthicone/Methicone, Silsequioxane, Crosspolymer, Phenyl, Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Water, Propylene Carbonate, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Silica Silyate, Fragrance, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Aluminum Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol.

Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink Foundation application tips

Make sure to check out Amy's review here. Her thoughts on foundations are always very insightful. Also check out Stacey's well written review on this for combination skin.

Final thoughts: Yves Saint Laurent Encre de Peau Fusion Ink looks very natural, blends so well, works great for normal (to dry) skin and can be build up without looking heavy or like a mask. I only wished the applicator had a little sponge on so that it wouldn't stain my clothes early in the morning when I am rushing and that more counters would have the whole shade range. It became my go to foundation at the moment and I highly recommend checking it out, especially for normal complexions who are not too much concerned about oil control.

EDIT: Following reader comments below, there are ladies with oily skin who like the oil control. It is also mentioned if you are sensitive to alcohol or if you have very dry/mature skin, it may not work for you. Try to get a sample to try out before if you can. The foundation works very well for dry to normal, normal to combination range.

You can see me wearing it in almost all of my FOTDs, for example here, here and here.

Have you tried YSL Fusion Ink yet? How do you find it?














Disclaimer: YSL Fusion Ink BR50 was sent to me free of charge for consideration. I have purchased B20. I am not paid for this review, all opinions are honest and my own.